AIR CONDITIONERS

Myth: "My window air conditioner needs to be 'recharged' each year to work effectively."

Truth: Household air conditioners should never require a refrigerant recharge. The gas travels in a sealed system and should never escape unless damage is done to the system. If your unit is not cooling as well as it did before, it likely only needs a professional steam/chemical cleaning. Older car air conditioners are different and may require periodic recharges.

Myth: "I can bring fresh air into a room and vent dirty or stale air to the outdoors by turning on my window air conditioner."

Truth: Window air conditioners do not exchange air with the outdoors. They cool and recycle the air within the house only. On models with a vent, when open, only a percentage of the inside air is exhausted outside and is not replaced by the unit.

Air Conditioner Tips
>>  Do not drill holes to remove excess moisture from inside the unit. The water that accumulates in the bottom is the humidity removed from your room. On many models, the condenser fan blade picks up this water and throws it on the hot condenser. When it evaporates it aids in the heat removal from the refrigerant. In addition, the refrigerant gas travels in thin copper tubing which is easily punctured. Expensive repairs will be required to fix it and that damage will not be covered by any warranty.

>>  Do not attempt to use regular plumbing solder to repair copper or steel refrigerant lines. This requires special silver-alloy solders such as Silfoss or silver solder to withstand refrigerant pressures. In addition, once tried, it may not be possible to remove the household solder to weld the lines properly.

>>  Keep the front grill on the unit. Proper air circulation is necessary for the highest efficiency. Also make sure curtains or other obstacles do not hamper the air flow.

>>  Keep other window curtains closed, as sunlight can increase room temperature greatly. If possible, put the air conditioner in a north facing window to avoid direct sunlight on the condenser because this will hamper heat removal.

>>  Do not operate the unit on an extension cord! The compressor draws a lot of current and can be damaged if insufficient voltage is continually supplied. If you must use an extension cord, use only one designed for air conditioners (usually flat) AND only as long as required. NEVER use a lawn mower extension cord.

>>  Air conditioners are not meant to be operated if the inside or outside air temperature is below 70°F. If this happens, ice will form on the evaporator coil and will restrict air flow, possibly burning out the fan motor. If the temperature is supposed to drop during the night, set the thermostat to a warmer setting to allow the compressor to cycle off when necessary to avoid icing up.

>>  Have your unit steam-cleaned at least one every 3 years, or every year if you live in a heavy-traffic area. Particles stick to the surface of the condenser, reducing the cooling efficiency and causing increased power consumption. This is also true for central air conditioners.

>>  When installing a window air conditioner or a through-the-wall air conditioner, it is important that it still be removable. It will need to be removed for repairs and for the periodic maintenance that is required from time to time. It is also important that none of the air louvers on the sides be blocked. Reducing these air vents will reduce the cooling ability of the unit and can lead to premature component failure. Any failures caused by this will usually not be covered by any warranty.

>>  To aid the flow of recovered room humidity from the front of the cabinet towards the rear, make sure that the unit is pitched so that the rear of the unit is 1/4 to 1/2 inches lower than the front.

DISHWASHERS

Myth: "If my dishwasher fails to function, I should call a plumber."

Truth: In most cases, you should not. Major appliances are considerably different from most other plumbing fixtures. Most plumbers are not familiar with the intricacies of the appliance itself and should only be called if the problem lies in the connection to the household plumbing.

Myth: "My dishwasher is broken because there is some water in the bottom after the cycle is finished."

Truth: There should always be some water left in the bottom sump of the dishwasher at the end of a wash. This water keeps the seals moist to avoid them drying out and leaking. When the dishwasher starts, it will first drain for several seconds to remove standing water, then it will fill with fresh water and begin the wash cycle.

Myth: "A dishwasher pumps in water to fill it up."

Truth: When needed, a water-fill valve simply opens to allow the household water pressure fill the machine. The pump is only involved in draining the appliance and washing.

DISHWASHER TIPS
>>  If you will be tiling your kitchen floor, make sure you tile beneath the dishwasher or at least raise its flooring to the same height as the tiles. Once down, there may not be enough clearance to remove the dishwasher for servicing. The only alternative will be to lift the whole counter top off of the cupboards, a needless expense.

>>  Keep items of different metals separated in the silverware basket of the dishwasher. Cutlery can discolor if dissimilar metals (stainless steel, silver, etc.) are touching when washed. The heat and water can cause electrolysis to occur that blackens or pits the surface of metal utensils.

>>  Clear your plates of solid food particles before washing them. Large particles can get into or puncture seals causing water leaks and clog filters causing washability problems.

>>  Bread bag closures, corners cut from bags of milk and elastic bands can unknowingly get stuck to the underside of bowls and plates and get put into the dishwasher. These items can clog up the pump and lead to expensive repairs. Be sure to dispose of these items into the garbage.

>>  Upon finding a broken glass in your dishwasher, do an extensive search to find all the broken pieces. Check the filter and at the bottom of the unit. Glass shards can get into the pump and cause serious damage and even water leaks.

>>  Check the bottom of the silverware basket for holes. Cutlery can extend through the holes and inhibit the spray arm from turning, causing poor washability. When the technician arrives and the load has been removed, the problem cause may not be apparent.

>>  Any water leakage should be looked into immediately. Water can get into motors causing major damage, or cause flooring to rot.

>>  Never use old dishwasher soap. It may cake up or fails to dissolve properly. Only large families can use up economy-sized soap fast enough before it gets old and less effective. Try liquid or gel dishwasher soap.

>>  A dishwasher needs 140 degree water from your hot water heater to clean effectively. Be very careful, however, when raising the temperature. The hot water coming out of sinks and showers may be hot enough to scald.

>>  A common problem is that the machine is working but not cleaning well. Try cleaning the food screen in the bottom and the little holes in the spinner mechanisms.

DISPOSERS

Myth: "If my food waste disposal fails to function, I should call a plumber."

Truth: In most cases, you should not. While plumbers usually install disposals, if a fault occurs inside the unit itself, most plumbers are not equipped to service the unit. They will often just take the whole unit to an appliance repair shop or advise you to purchase a replacement unit. However, if you feel the problem lies in the plumbing connecting it to your pipes, a plumber is usually the one to call.

DISPOSER TIP
>>  Do not put stringy food waste into the unit. Items such as corn husks and celery can clog up the mechanism.

DRYERS

Myth: "If my electric dryer is not heating but it is running, the fuses for it must be good."

Truth: There are two fuses in the house fuse panel for the dryer. Both are required for the dryer to heat, but only one needs to be good for the motor and timer to function. If one of the two has failed, the heater will not function.

Myth: "If a house fuse or breaker for the dryer is open, the fault must be in the appliance."

Truth: If the fuse blows when first starting the dryer, the cause is usually in the appliance. If it opens after several minutes of use, the problem is often in the fuse/breaker box. A poor contact between the fuse/breaker and the contacts inside the box will generate heat. This heat will melt a fuse's filament or trip a breaker, opening the circuit. When replacing a fuse shortly after it has blown, make note of it's temperature. If it is at all warm to the touch, this indicates a bad connection. Many household electricians are not even aware of this and may continue to insist that the problem is in the appliance.

DRYER TIPS
>>  If your electric dryer is not heating, the first thing to check are the fuses/breakers in your house fuse panel. There are two separate fuses for your dryer and if one of the two should fail, it is possible for your dryer to run but not produce any heat.

>>  When you hear grinding or squealing noises, have it tended to quickly. There are many inexpensive parts on a dryer that can wear out. If they are not replaced in a timely fashion it can lead to extensive repairs.

>>  Clean the lint filter every time you use the dryer and inspect the vent pipe and vent cover operation yearly. Poor air flow uses more energy and can cause lint build-up in the internal ducting, leading to a fire hazard. Lint buildup also lengthens the time it takes to dry your clothes.

>>  Never vent a gas dryer indoors! Carbon monoxide gas can be expelled with the exhaust air and can build-up inside your home to poisonous levels.

>>  If your dryer heats but takes a long time, and the lint filter and ducts are free of lint, one heating element coil may have burned out.

>>  Motor runs but the drum doesn't turn: you most likely have a broken belt.

FREEZERS

Myth: "When using the 'quick freeze' switch, it boosts the cooling power of my freezer."

Truth: This switch simply bypasses the thermostat to make the compressor run continuously without letting it cycle off as it normally would.

FREEZER TIPS
>>  Do not leave your freezer unplugged for a lengthy time. The condenser coils welded inside the cabinet are made of steel. While running they are kept hot evaporating moisture. When not operational, they are exposed to the moisture and rust out. The refrigerant gas then leaks out and major repairs are required.

>>  Do not drill holes into the cabinet to install a padlock. The condenser coils welded inside the cabinet will likely be punctured. The refrigerant gas will then leak out and the unit will require major repairs.

>>  For smaller or compact freezers you should have large meat orders pre-frozen by the butcher. These units have limited ability to freeze large amounts of food at one time. It will also use a considerable amount of power because it will have to run continuously for a long period of time.

ICEMAKERS

ICEMAKER TIPS
>>  When connecting an icemaker to the water line, leave extra tubing coiled behind the fridge to allow the appliance to be pulled forward for service and maintenance. Copper tubing is recommended for this installation because it is the most durable. Plastic tubing in this application can become brittle over time, when exposed to the heat of the compressor and condenser, and fracture causing water damage to the floor.

>>  Do not install the refrigerator water supply valve on the underside of the water pipe. Over a period of time, scale and lime residue will tend to settle in the valve and clog it. Use the icemaker during the winter months even if just to discard the ice. Long periods of non-use can jam up the unit.

MICROWAVES

Myth: "You cannot use aluminium foil inside a microwave oven."

Truth: You can use aluminium foil inside when cooking, however, anything covered by it will not be heated because the foil will reflect the microwaves away from the food. Caution should be taken so no foil or metal touches the interior walls or door, otherwise arching will occur and damage to the finish will result.

MICROWAVE TIPS
>>  When cooking microwave popcorn, place the bag on a microwave safe plate. Extreme temperature differences between the popcorn and glass tray can cause thermal breakage of the tray.

>>  Keep the glass tray clear of food residue. While cooking, the spillage continues to heat and can cause thermal breakage of the tray.

>>  Keep vents on all sides and top of the unit clear. These are necessary for the cooling of internal components.

>>  Do not operate the oven without food inside. When there is no load to absorb the microwaves, they can be redirected back to the magnetron tube and cause premature failure.

RANGES & WALL OVENS

Myth: "The glass on the oven door exploded all by itself."

Truth: When an oven door glass shatters, there is always a cause. The cause could have occurred weeks or months before and gone unnoticed. For example, if the oven door was struck, say with a broom handle when cleaning, or if the door was allowed to slam shut once, that's all it takes. This initial blow weakened the structure of the glass. Later, after repeated heating and coolings, causing thermal expansion and contraction of the glass, it finally failed critically. Luckily, ranges are equipped with safety glass, so no large jagged shards remain to do additional harm.


Myth: "The thermostat varies the amount of current the oven heaters use."

Truth: It simply turns the elements on and off (at full power) to get an average temperature. For example, it may heat until it senses a temperature of 375°F and then stop until it lowers to 325°F. However, the average cooking temperature will be somewhere in the middle, around 350°. Electric surface elements also always run at full voltage. The controlling switch simply cycles the power on and off quickly to vary the amount of heat generated.

Myth: "If the power goes out, I can still light the oven of my gas range with a match."

Truth: On gas models with electronic oven ignition, the oven cannot be lit without power. However, the surface burners can in most cases still be lit using a BBQ spark ignitor or other flame source.

Myth: "My gas oven won't light so the pilot must have gone out."

Truth: Most modern gas ranges use an electronic ignition system to light the burners; these don't utilize a standing pilot. On such models, if the oven won't light there is a problem in the range that will have to be corrected.

RANGE & WALL OVEN TIPS
>>  If you purchase an electric range with a glass cooktop or solid surface burners, you may have to replace your cooking pots and pans as well. For these types of elements it is critical the bottom surface of these utensils be absolutely flat. To test your pots, stand a straight-edge or ruler on its edge across the bottom of the pan. If the straight edge isn't in 100% contact across the bottom surface of the pan, it is not usable.

>>  When using foil inside the oven to help keep it clean, keep it at least one inch from any electric heating element. The foil can reflect the heat back to the element causing overheating and premature failure. Do not put foil on the oven racks as it inhibits proper air circulation and can cause poor cooking results.

>>  When cooking on an electric surface element, do not allow the heater to glow red hot. When that happens it means that the pot can not absorb all the heat generated by the element. You should reduce the setting one position. This excess heat can discolour the element drip bowl and even melt the steel element frame. In addition, it wastes electricity and reduces the lifespan of the element.

>>  Self-clean your oven frequently to ensure grease doesn't build up to the point of causing a fire or smoking so badly that it sets off the smoke detector when eventually cleaned.

>>  If installing a wall oven below counter top level, be aware that small children could be exposed to a burn hazard. Not all wall ovens conform to the same temperature standards that regular ranges do. This is because some are designed to only be installed above counter height were a chance of getting a burn is somewhat reduced.

>>  For some electric ranges with clocks that have a start and stop function, you may have to set the control set to "manual" for the oven to work at all. Another reason some ovens don't come on is that the oven selector switch is set to "timed bake" instead of just "bake".

>>  Electric plug-in top elements will not heat if they are not firmly inserted into the receptacles. If the plug ends are burned from arcing, replace both element and receptacle.

REFRIGERATORS

Myth: "Refrigerators add coldness to the food inside of them."

Truth: Refrigerators do not "add cooling"; they actually remove heat from the food and the air inside it. This heat is then transferred to the exterior condenser and is absorbed by the air in the room.

Myth: "The thermostat varies the amount of cooling the refrigerator generates."

Truth: It simply turns the system on and off to get an average temperature. The compressor will run at 100% until the thermostat senses that the temperature has fallen below the level the user has set, and then it will stop running altogether until the temperature has risen. This keeps the food at a constant temperature.

REFRIGERATOR TIPS
>>  Refrigerators with forced air condensers are the only kind that can be built in. Models with regular static condensers will not be able to dissipate the heat if used in this application. This will result in poor cooling efficiency and damage to the compressor. You can tell forced air models by the fan, located in the compressor compartment, used to circulate air through the condenser.

>>  Use the energy saver switch on newer models. This controls an electric heater built into the front perimeter of the cabinet. In humid weather it keeps moisture from collecting there, but is seldom required in the dry winter months.

>>  When putting freshly washed vegetables into the fridge, dry them before hand. Excessive moisture can make the appliance work harder and use more energy.

>>  To find out if your refrigerator is keeping the proper temperature, put a container of water on the middle shelf. Let it stand overnight and then test the water temperature. Because the air temperature varies so widely, this is the only accurate way to find out.

>>  If you need to transport the fridge, you can lay it on its side. It's best if the hinges are at the top so the doors don't fall open. After moving, you should leave it stand upright at least an hour before plugging it in. This is because when horizontal, the oil in the compressor will seep into the refrigerant lines and plug them. Leave some time for the oil to settle back into the compressor. In addition, the less time the fridge is on its side the better.

>>  If you're planning to leave a refrigerator unplugged or turned off for a length of time, be sure to keep both doors ajar. Put something between the door gaskets and the front frame of the cabinet and use masking tape to hold the doors in place. Moist air trapped inside the fridge will produce mold and mildew that will be difficult to clean out.

>>  Frequently clean the door gaskets and the refrigerator surface where they seal. Any sticky buildup will put added stress on the gasket material and lead to premature failure.

>>  When storing items in the door, place the heaviest items closest to the hinge side. This will minimize the distance these items travel when the door is opened and closed, reducing stress on the door and inner door panel.

>>  To increase cooling efficiency and reduce power consumption on a manual-defrost fridge, defrost it often. However, DO NOT use a sharp object to break up the ice. The refrigerant gas travels through tubing molded into the freezer box (evaporator), and is easily punctured. Major repairs will be required to fix it and if the fridge is not unplugged immediately, moisture will be drawn into the compressor. In this case it will certainly not be economical to repair.

>>  On frost-free models with a condenser fan motor, clean the dust from the fan and condenser area periodically. Excessive build-up can lead to premature compressor failure and does result in higher energy consumption.

>>  Do not attempt to use regular plumbing solder to repair copper or steel refrigerant lines. This requires special silver-alloy solders such as Silfoss or silver solder to withstand refrigerant pressures. In addition, once tried, it may not be possible to remove the household solder to weld the lines properly.

>>  If your refrigerator has gone dead, check to see if the outlet it is plugged into is actually still live.

>>  If your refrigerator door does not seal properly, your fridge will run very inefficiently and soak up your money. Minor imperfections in the door gaskets can usually be filled in with white Silicone bathtub caulk. Ask us about single sections of the gasket for sale in our parts department.

>>  Clean your refrigerator's coils underneath twice a year, and make sure the fan is really moving air through the kickplate. Otherwise the coils may run too hot and it may run all the time.

>>  A squealing sound from a cold freezer compartment of a frost-free refrigerator may indicate a bad evaporator fan behind the back panel in the freezer. Don't try to lubricate it since it won't last long --just replace it. Call for details on how to do the job yourself.